Wednesday, June 06, 2007

Chocolate Délice with Salted Caramel & Malted Barley Ice Cream

From David Everitt-Matthias' Essence: Recipes from Le Champignon Sauvage, an inspirational cookbook from the chef behind the restaurant that has been quietly revolutionising modern British cooking from sleepy Cheltenham.

Unlike most restaurant cookbooks, the recipes from this highly original volume are very approachable - emphatically not because anything's been dumbed down for us home cooks all too often kindly presumed to be incapable of comprehending steps worded in sentences with more than two independent clauses, but because each complex recipe has been carefully broken down into the separate components, with detailed instructions on how to create each element, thus making the book especially appealing to the sort of home cook apt to deconstruct and mix-and-match as mood and resources dictate.

Seamless, dissolve-on-tongue chocolate mousse. Chewy, salty, buttery caramel. Nostalgic, velvety, unmistakably malted ice cream. Crisp, crackling sesame wafer. Aside from being a combination of tastes and textures that a clunky string of adjectives really doesn't do justice to, what's really interesting is the method used to stabilise the olive oil (yes, olive oil) and bitter chocolate mixture. The trick is to proceed as if mounting a mayonnaise, thus giving the olive oil something to adhere to. The resulting texture is extraordinary, quite unlike your garden variety chocolate mousse, good as it may be.

That said, what moved me off the sofa and towards the kitchen was not so much theoretically interesting technique, fascinating as it is, but good old greed - I have a huge weakness for salted caramel, and even on mere paper, this dessert promised to be a real winner.

37 Comments:

Blogger nini said...

uauuu, quelle merveille, sublime!

3:18 am, June 06, 2007  
Blogger Tokyoastrogirl said...

You've really outdone yourself....I might actually have to lick my computer screen. It looks irresistable!!!

4:09 am, June 06, 2007  
Blogger Big Boys Oven said...

It looks so gorgeous!! Well anchored.

1:39 pm, June 06, 2007  
Anonymous jeanne bee said...

funny you should mention those little delights...Michael Recchiuti a chocolatier based here in SF makes the most elegant sea salt caramels I've come across. who knew this combination could be so good! glad to see you posting again--life does get caught up to us doesn't it?

2:28 pm, June 06, 2007  
Blogger cocotte said...

gorgeous, that's the word...

6:24 pm, June 06, 2007  
Blogger ooishigal said...

oh my...!

8:26 pm, June 06, 2007  
Anonymous veron said...

and who wouldn't crave salted caramel? It is simply addictive.

8:36 pm, June 06, 2007  
Blogger ***Joanna*** said...

looks beautiful and delicious. i'm interested by the olive oil chocolate mousse, having recently fallen in love with olive oil ice cream served sprinkled with sea salt and drizzled with a particularly fruity oil. i'll have to try it!

10:36 pm, June 06, 2007  
Blogger Brigitte said...

It seems to me as if I have to head to Kinukuniya again and get that book.

10:50 pm, June 06, 2007  
Blogger L Vanel said...

This is something I have GOT to do. Ditto on the book, I am sold.

1:06 am, June 07, 2007  
Blogger Chubbypanda said...

That picture of the oozing caramel is practically pornographic. Am I the only person who salivates at the sight of gooey, oozing desserts?

5:41 am, June 07, 2007  
Anonymous ParisBreakfasts said...

THIS is the most outrageous thing I've ever seen here or maybe ANYWHERE!
I'm referring to the last picture of course.
You have no pity J.

7:10 am, June 07, 2007  
Blogger Mochene said...

I haven't even read the post, just looked at the photos and all I can say is "Oh my God!" You always seem to make me want to go into my kitchen and bake something.

2:33 pm, June 07, 2007  
Anonymous Sascha + Alix said...

Weren't you supposed to be working on an ice cream cake for W? Heh heh...

4:08 pm, June 07, 2007  
Anonymous K. said...

I love this!! Beyond looking delicious, it is aestetically pleasing. I've been having a hard time deciding what to do for a dessert course on an upcoming dinner party, and the mousse looks perfect. Could you (please) part with the recipe? Thanks!!!

2:47 am, June 08, 2007  
Blogger Anita said...

J,
You have the most marvelous knack of making your pastry look like timeless sculpture...I'm always thinking your creations ought to be in a gallery somewhere, not eaten!

5:56 am, June 08, 2007  
Blogger Linda said...

wowed by the ooze!

12:57 am, June 09, 2007  
Blogger Kiriel du Papillon said...

Marry me now or lose me forever! Don't let the fact that I am a girl and hetero bother you, I only want to marry you for your cooking. That dish looks absolutely amazing; thats why I nominated you for a blog award

4:35 am, June 09, 2007  
Blogger Myrtille said...

So intoxicating,mmmmmmmmm!!!Totally seductive post and pictures.

4:48 pm, June 09, 2007  
Blogger shuna fish lydon said...

what I like about your prose is that you sound tough, even thousands upon time zones away. I think we would get along in the kitchen. it helps that the phtographs are stunning and the plating is innovative but also straightforward.

Thank you for reminding us to be smart and efficient and also leave room for for our own possible finesse.

8:04 am, June 10, 2007  
Anonymous Y said...

I love this book too, and have tried the recipe. The salted caramel is fabulous, but mine didn't turn out as runny as yours.

3:13 pm, June 10, 2007  
Blogger Pille said...

That salted caramel looks divine! I need to look up the recipe, too..

4:22 pm, June 11, 2007  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

Once more your product looks better than the books!
Adey

11:33 pm, June 11, 2007  
Blogger veronica said...

wonderful amazing...can we get the recipe for the "mousse"

5:44 am, June 12, 2007  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

hi Jos! Can u recommend me a good ice cream maker for a small cafe?

3:41 pm, June 12, 2007  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

I don't bake, but your pictures alone make me drool and want to learn to do it some day.... looks delicious.

11:48 pm, June 13, 2007  
Blogger Mercedes said...

This is really beautiful! I'm familiar with the chocolate olive oil mousse from Spain; I'm curious how this is put together- You put the mousse into a mold, and insert the caramel in the center? What consistency is the caramel and how do you get it to ooze out like that? Very well done!

10:09 am, June 15, 2007  
Blogger tout cuisiner said...

Merci pour cet instant de plaisir sucré ;)

Thank you for that sweety moment

1:22 pm, June 15, 2007  
Anonymous cin said...

we're suckers for salted caramel here too and that oozy caramel filling and very smooth chocolate mousse would go down a treat here.

8:13 pm, June 15, 2007  
Blogger Jerry said...

Looks yummy. Very yummy

12:45 am, June 16, 2007  
Blogger Tamami said...

Hello. I just chanced upon your site today for the first time, & instantly thought 'wowza!'! Your photography is so sooo beautiful -- If only my photography was as good as yours... Puts my blog to shame!

7:37 am, June 16, 2007  
Blogger Kiriel du Papillon said...

My new copy of Essence arrived today; David Everitt-Matthias has you to thank for the sale!

1:44 am, June 20, 2007  
Anonymous Stephen said...

I don't even have a sweet tooth but that looks amazing.

7:26 am, June 21, 2007  
Blogger The Culinary Chase said...

Your photo's are mouth watering & I love anything caramel! Cheers!

9:20 am, June 21, 2007  
Anonymous Dayna said...

I see about 7 others have already taken the words from my mouth...

Oh, my God.

4:45 am, August 24, 2007  
Blogger s.j.simon said...

lol. did you know that chocolate was banned in switzerland for many years. read this

11:43 pm, November 25, 2007  
Blogger Courtney said...

I have that book! Oh, and I've drooled over this very dessert, but haven't gotten around to making it. I've done the much simpler but nonetheless delicious pistachio and olive oil cake with roasted strawberries (no rhubarb sorbet though, don't have an ice cream maker). You're pictures might have inspired me to give this one a go, though...
courtney @ http://thedoughball.blogspot.com/

11:19 pm, February 24, 2008  

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