Monday, January 23, 2006

Oozy Quail Egg Ravioli

These pillows of supple egg pasta, each coddling a single quivering yolk of a quail's egg, are probably best consumed after your annual cholestrol test. But, you only live once (although, funnily enough, the health police will likely say the same). The dish, based on that found in Rick Tramonto's Tru, is exceedingly rich - which thus makes it perfect as a small first course, each person getting a modest helping of just two ravioli. Do the math, and the heart-stopping number of eggs required for the full recipe really isn't so heart-stopping. And honestly, if you're going to spend that weekly egg quota in one go, you may as well do it boldly.

As with most good things, it's not for the faint of heart - I love eggs, so I mean this metaphorically rather than literally. This recipe, as is the case with others in the book, is a time-consuming multi-component affair involving fairly lavish ingredients - to be exact, it sprawls across 3 whole pages excluding the picture. To make each dumpling, the carefully separated quail egg yolk is nestled atop a dollop of herb-scented cauliflower cream then daubed with truffle butter before being swathed by sheets of pasta. The cooked ravioli are gently plopped onto an aromatic puddle of porcini puree, dressed with a frothy porcini emulsion, slivers of seared mushrooms (I used a mixture of dried porcini, king oyster, and portobello) and shavings of parmesan, then finished with white truffle oil and chives.

If the ravioli have been correctly cooked (precisely 1 minute from when the water returns to a boil), whence spoon pierces pasta, rivulets of truffle-scented yolk, all runny and golden, will ooze. Shamelessly indulgent on every level, and unapologetically so, I daresay the guilt makes the eating even more of a pleasure.

28 Comments:

Blogger Clare Eats said...

Oh my
that is an amazing dish!
Beautiful, indulgent and stunningly beautiful.
Wow

4:08 pm, January 23, 2006  
Blogger Paz said...

This sounds like a real TREAT!

Paz

4:29 pm, January 23, 2006  
Blogger Nic said...

Wow, J. I feel so full after simply reading your description and looking at that fantastic photo that I don't think I would have room for even a two ravioli serving. Definately one of the most gorgeous dishes I've seen in a while. I can only imagine the scent!

9:32 pm, January 23, 2006  
Blogger relly said...

Surely rich, as well if the pasta itself is made with egg. Mouthwatering, i am imagining right in front of my laptop the taste should be exquise.
Gourmet cooking is something!!

New in blog, i am wondering if i may be able to one like that!!!

12:38 am, January 24, 2006  
Blogger MM said...

Now it explains why you commented about my egg! Great minds think alike - well, yours is way greater than mine since mine goes missing a lot. I love the look and sound of the ravioli but crikey, I am putting on weight just watching it!

2:53 am, January 24, 2006  
Blogger bea said...

That looks delicious. I love egg quails, not easy to find here in Boston though ;-( but common in France. I think they are just tasty and also so much cuter. And your raviolis are really inviting!

5:25 am, January 24, 2006  
Anonymous bea at La Tartine Gourmande said...

That looks delicious. I love egg quails, not easy to find here in Boston though ;-( but common in France. I think they are just tasty and also so much cuter. And your raviolis are really inviting!

5:26 am, January 24, 2006  
Anonymous SallyBR said...

I was lucky enough to live in Paris for a couple of years, and had a similar dish once....
Reading your post brought wonderful memories, and intense salivating over the keyboard

Thanks for keeping such a fantastic foodblog, that alwyas brightens my day!

5:58 am, January 24, 2006  
Anonymous stef said...

J, i am so envious. fresh quail eggs, and that golden ooze? talk about decadent. and truffle oil on top of that? oy! i'd be in heaven.

6:34 am, January 24, 2006  
Blogger cin said...

The title of this post was already making my mouth water so you cannot imagine the state I was in by the time I reached the line "...rivulets of truffle-scented yolk, all runny and golden..."!
Descriptions like these should completely be outlawed, J. >:-/

Great photo and desciption as per usual.

8:38 am, January 24, 2006  
Anonymous Ivonne said...

Luscious and delicious!

11:48 am, January 24, 2006  
Blogger eatdrinknbmerry said...

Jocelyn, i really like your usage of quail eggs and truffles, which both have distinctly strong and memorable tastes on the pallet.

how long did you boil the quail eggs for?

5:41 pm, January 24, 2006  
Blogger eatzycath said...

oh my, 3 pages of instruction for a single minute or two of ecstasy, if that is not an incredible labor of love.. I can't think what else is?

6:13 pm, January 24, 2006  
Blogger eatzycath said...

This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

6:13 pm, January 24, 2006  
Blogger Vivilicious said...

Oohhh, luscious, decadent, savory, earthy, all things I love about your dish, I have got to try it when I have a few days to spare! By the way, I have tagged you for the Too Much Information Meme, hope that's okay...

8:55 pm, January 24, 2006  
Anonymous Melissa said...

So, so decadent! You certainly seem to have a knack for picking out the most luscious, drool-inducing recipes. And I admire your patience, J - lazy cook that I am, I would probably skip right over any three-page-long recipe in search of speedier gratification!

3:43 am, January 25, 2006  
Blogger ryan said...

This dish looks absolutely divine.

4:33 am, January 25, 2006  
Blogger michelle said...

"I daresay the guilt makes the eating even more of a pleasure." Here, Here! I agree completely! Stunning, dear J, just stunning!

5:49 am, January 25, 2006  
Blogger Skrat said...

WOW....that looks amazingly delish! I love eggs as well no matter what it does to my health. Awesome job again J!

2:30 pm, January 25, 2006  
Blogger Ruth said...

So decadent, so divine, so beautiful.

Always a pleasure to visit here.

8:57 pm, January 25, 2006  
Blogger Helen said...

I just found your blog and was simply glued to my monitor for an hour -- what great photography!

The pasta with quail egg looks worth every calory!

2:10 am, January 26, 2006  
Blogger Shauna said...

My goodness, that's gorgeous. I love how you captured the quiveryness (and I know that's not a word, but no problem) in the photograph. Now, I'm all a quiver as well, wanting to eat some!

2:35 am, January 26, 2006  
Blogger deborah said...

Mmmm... deliciously indulgent. Your last paragraph sums up the dish so very perfectly, they may been no need for the gorgeous photograph :)

And also - I've tagged you for a meme. Hope thats ok!

8:46 am, January 26, 2006  
Anonymous sha said...

calorific and sinful
i dont see quail eggs here... hmm
great work of art as usual...
full of passion and forget the cholesterol!

2:59 am, January 27, 2006  
Blogger Pille said...

J - this looks so oozingly tempting! I love eating quail eggs and buy them quite frequently. I boil them for a minute, dip into crushed Maldon salt flakes and pop into my mouth..

10:29 pm, January 27, 2006  
Blogger fiordizucca said...

love this egg ravioli. simply and effective. great shot too!! well done :)

11:35 pm, February 07, 2006  
Blogger J said...

hi clare, thanks for your kind words!

hi paz thanks!

hi nic thanks! i must say after two, i was pretty sated and barely had room for much else after. one per portion, it should be...

hi relly, thanks! am sure anything you care to make will turn out lovely

hi mm, thanks! diet food it is not ;)

hi bea, thanks! i have to say separating quail's eggs are just about the most fiddly task there exists

hi sallybr, thanks! am glad to be of any service ;)

hi stef, rick tramonto's recipe does give the classic egg+truffle pairing a very delicious twist, i must say

hi cin, i do have a secret weakness for purple prose, i must confess!

hi ivonne, thanks!

hi dylan, thanks! the ravioli with the raw quail yolk nestled within took exactly 1 minute (counting from the time the water comes back to the boil) to cook - the short time ensures the yolk remains runny

hi cath, let's just say its the culinary equivalent of self-flagellation ;)

hi viv, thanks! i will try to get to it soon

hi melissa, i must admit i was feeling rather masochistic that afternoon - ordinarily, i would give any 3 page long recipe a miss too!

hi ryan, thanks!

hi michelle, thanks! somehow, food that makes me feel like a bad girl always tastes better ;)

hi skrat, thanks!

hi ruth, thanks! you are always so kind

hi helen, thanks for visiting and glad you like the pictures!

hi shauna, thanks! the picture was a little nerve wrecking to take given that i had a split second window of opportunity before quivering ooziness became yellow puddle on plate!

hi saffron, thanks, i'll try to get round to it!

hi sha, glad you agree...frankly, cholestrol is often the last thing on my mind ;)

hi pille, aren't quail eggs just the ultimate pop-in-your-mouth bite of heaven?

hi fiordizucca, thanks for visiting and your kind note!

11:51 am, February 13, 2006  
Anonymous Cori said...

Quail eggs can almost always be found at your local asian market, along with duck eggs, and sometimes guniea hen eggs if you are so inclined...along with many other great treats, like just about any fresh mushroom you want. As well as about a thousand things I personally cannot identify.
The asian market prices beat the pants off of schmancy speciality shops too!

2:18 pm, August 18, 2006  

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